Epilogue

Days 15-27 (2-November-2013):  540 km. Mr. Iik had decided to end the tour. He rides back to Dali and takes two trains, first to Kunming, then to his final destination, Chengdu (成都). He soon starts to regret quitting: the pills seem to have worked to keep the disease at bay, his schedule wasn't too bad and he probably could keep his Achilles's tendon injury under control. But, there was no way back. In Chengdu he had a brilliant idea to at least partially save the tour: to cycle to Balang shan pass which is at altitude above 4500 m and only about 200 km north-west of Chengdu. He cycles to Dujiangyan (都江堰) and stations himself there, waiting for good weather to attack the pass. The good weather never came and all he did was to spent his waiting days in daily trips to the base of the pass at Yingxiu (映秀), then finally cycle back to Chengdu and fly back home.

P.S. He later discovered that the road S303 to Balang Shan pass had been in repair for some time and had been damaged in recent earthquakes, so the climb would be very difficult even in fine weather.
This is hardly a school example of proper packaging of a bike,
but it was free of charge on the train.
Yingxiu. Uninspiring weather to start a 3800 m ascent.
Meditation by the river side on a daily trip
Impressions from the market.

Mr. Iik's tour ended in stunning similarity to his last visit to Asia.  He could repeat the epilogue that he already wrote there: to complain about this and that and to conclude that he won't come to the 3rd world ever again. But he is a bit older now, a bit more experienced and has a different attitude. Even so the tour was a "failure", he did learn something from it. He knows now that a far-away tour is not a magical retreat where you get away from your everyday life, "fill the batteries", make a change, have a doze of adrenalin or adventure. You should not idealize it, it is just a continuation of your life. A big positive aspect of it - the remarkable freedom of travelling from a place to place, leaving everything behind you every day - will only be evident once you return home.

This is hardly a school example of the proper packaging of a bike for the flight, but,
weighing less then 10 kg it was free of charge on the plane
and arrived unscratched to destination after 3 connecting flights.
Ingredients & tools required: roll of scotch tape, piece of cardboard and a razor blade.
Pedals and seat were taken as hand-luggage,
tools & tent spikes (not allowed as hand-luggage) were taped to the rack .

Riding statistics: 1727 km, 19702 m of climbing, 94:38 h of riding, 14 cycling days, 0 rest days. Average per day: 123 km, 1407 m, 6:46 h, 18.2 km/h.

15 comments:

  1. ""true" cycle touring - means adventure, cultural shock, cheap accommodation and food, stealth camping, self-sufficiency, suffering and that sort of thing."
    Personally I think you can get all that in Europe my friend.
    I bet Tenerife is looking good for a winter escape again?
    Jim.

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  2. Hi Jim,

    That was written with a bit of sarcasm, but I realize now there may be some truth in it. Europe and cheep accommodation (like 13 eur for a hotel)? No way!
    I can recommend Tenerife for a winter break, but I won't be travelling by airplane for a while.
    Cheers, Igor.

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    1. Well yes accommodation in Europe can be expensive. However I try to mix it up with Warmshowers and camping so that I can afford the luxury now and again of a B&B. It's nice to treat yourself. You are on holiday.
      I have to say Igor, you are looking a bit skinny on that latest pic. Hope you are well.
      Jim.

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  3. I'm sorry for the awful ending, hope you're doing well now. Wishes for the next tour, I'll be waiting to read that!
    PS: I think you can find a lighter usb cable...

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    1. Thanks, I'm very well. The cable could be shortened - the winter time is ideal for these kind of small tasks.

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  4. Hi Igor,
    Very interesting read. I'm planning a trip through Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and then into Mongolia in the next month or so.
    I'd be interested to know why you chose that specific route from Hanoi to the Chinese border rather than the more direct QL 32C or 70. What is the scenery or the mountains? And is China really as bad as it seems for cyclists?
    Thanks, Woody

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  5. HI Woody,

    I chose this route through Vietnam because of the limestone scenery - I was inspired by some reports, especially "Honeymoon to remember" on CGOAB. The route I took through China wasn't good, too much traffic. It might be better to take G213/G214 from Laos to Dali (see "Monsoon to mountains" on CGOAB). But I think the really nice part starts from Dali to Litang, and on to Chengdu (or Lanzhou), which I unfortunately missed.
    Good luck, Igor

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  6. Interesting read as ever, and quite an adventure. Such foreign sights, like the mud covered horned animal and pigs riding mopeds! I was the one who pointed you toward the crucifix shaped (Richey cpr) multi-tool. I hope it wasn't the one that failed you! I've sought out that other one, the J tool but it's very difficult to get in the UK without paying £10 in postage. Did I read that you took two pumps? I can understand the appeal of pumping both tyres simultaneously for quick airport departs but still, would be interested to here the rationale. Also, I read you had Conti 4 season tyres and wrote that they didn't match up well with the lower ability pump. Perhaps better to audition a 90g Lezeyne Road Drive than heavier tyres with the (Sub40?), maybe? At 100psi, the 4 Season tyres never seem to puncture for me, though I am on less demanding roads, no question about that.

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    1. Hi,
      it was the Lify ("J tool") that broke, not Richey. Two pumps: one failed in France due to broken rubber seal, so I took two of them as a precaution. You may be right about the heavier pump + 4 Season, but I can't afford the possibility of another disaster.
      Cheers, Igor.

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  7. I carry a small adapter. About the size of a coin. You can screw it onto your valve and then use an MTB or garage air line. better than carrying two pumps.

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  8. You given up touring Igor? Stay well.

    Jim

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  9. Hi Jim,

    I haven't given up touring yet, but waiting the right moment - which might not come for a while. Still have my RWT trip in mind.

    Igor

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